TOP SUMMER FISHING TIPS AND ADVICE

TOP SUMMER FISHING TIPS AND ADVICE




ANGLER’S MAIL columnist Dr Stuart Clough – who writes every week in the brilliant magazine – brings you his top 9 tips on coarse fish during the summer. You’ll learn lots about main fish species and how to catch them by reading this article, and his regular articles in the mag.

There are lots of ways of weighting the odds in your favour in summer if you take a little trouble over choosing your swim and your approach. I’ve put together a guide to improving your catches when the weather is warm and the days long, which should help you to put more fish on the bank

LOW WATER STALKING
When rivers are low and clear, fishing can be difficult, but it is still possible to catch and you can improve your chances in a number of ways. Roving while keeping concealed and fishing for one fish at a time is one option, and this allows you to cover lots of ground and target fish that are not buried deep in cover, and have their guard down, relatively speaking.
The target fish are often not actively searching for food, but they are alert, and will opportunistically take relatively large food items if you can present them in a natural way.
This form of fishing can be very rewarding, but also very frustrating, because if the fish becomes aware of you, either by sight or through vibration, you will have lost your chance. If you do manage to get into position to present a suitable bait, for example a freelined slug or breadflake for chub, or a lobworm or piece of meat for barbel, takes can be instantaneous, followed by memorable and sometimes hairy close-range scraps.
The main rules of engagement are to keep low on the horizon, approach from downstream and present the bait as naturally as you can, and if you spook the fish, move on to another swim, but keep a mental note of the spot, as the fish will often be back in the same position when you return.


THERMAL LAYERS EXPLAINED
The process of thermal stratification is most prevalent in the summer, and has a big influence on fish behaviour in waters that are affected. In calm conditions, when wind-driven mixing is minimal, the surface layers of the water column are heated by the sun, and effectively become separated from the cooler water away from the surface. The boundary between the two layers, known as the thermocline. The upper layer of water is warm and rich in oxygen, while the lower layer is cool, and over time can become completely devoid of oxygen, and of fish. In stillwaters of more than a couple of metres in depth it pays to avoid fishing on the bottom in deep water in calm, hot conditions, as it is likely that the lake will have stratified, and the fish will be near to the surface, or in the margins.


GET FISH COMPETING FIRST
If you prefer to stay in one spot rather than rove around, there is another way of catching consistently when rivers are low and clear. This tactic relies upon the opportunist nature of fish. The trick is to get fish competing for food before you start fishing, and a bed of small food particles such as hemp or micro pellets, or the introduction of loose feed little and often, can both work. It is important, however, that you don’t introduce a rig or start to catch fish until the fish have built up confidence, and a competitive feeding regime has been established. It can take anywhere from 30 minutes to several hours to build up competition. Once the fish are feeding competitively, it is often possible to remove several members from the shoal without the others becoming spooked and leaving the area.


SUMMER SCRAPPERS
The swimming speed of a fish, and the power it can generate is a function of a number of factors including fish size and water temperature. As a rule of thumb, large fish of a given species can swim faster, and fight harder than small ones. It is also true that the warmer the temperature, the faster a fish can swim, up to a point. However, coolwater species such as trout and grayling can come in like a wet sack in very hot weather. In general, however, swimming performance improves with increasing temperature. For hard-fighting species such as carp and barbel it is important to ensure that your tackle strength and knots can cope with this additional power, especially when fishing close to snags. Summer is often a time of year when, due to water clarity and fish behaviour, there is a tendency to scale down on line strength, but this must be balanced against the increase in power and speed of your target species.


CHANGING OXYGEN LEVELS
In densely vegetated waters there is a daily cycle of oxygen concentration that can affect both fish behaviour and feeding. Plants are known as primary producers, and they grow using a process called photosynthesis whereby energy from the sun is used to generate food.
Oxygen is a by-product of photosynthesis, so on bright, sunny days when plants are photosynthesising actively, oxygen concentrations rise steadily throughout the day, and are often close to saturation by mid-afternoon. At night it is a different story. Photosynthesis stops, and so does the release of oxygen into the water. Plants, along with fish and millions of micro-organisms, use up oxygen during respiration, meaning that the oxygen saturation in the water falls through the night, reaching a minimum just after dawn. Fish are used to this daily fluctuation in oxygen concentration, and sometimes change their behaviour as a result. In affected waters, fish are often found close to the surface overnight and at dawn, but they don’t always feed strongly. If you have ever had one of those frustrating nights when there seemed to be lots of activity but no takes, only for the bites to start as the activity seemed to be subsiding, fluctuating oxygen concentrations were probably the cause.


DON’T OVERDO THE FREEBIES
There is little doubt that most species of fish feed more in summer, and much of their annual growth in length occurs in the warmer months. As a result, you can get away with using much more feed in summer, as more species are active, and appetites are larger.
That said, for short sessions you could be reducing your chances if you overdo feeding. The more bait there is in the water, the lower the chances of a fish selecting your hook bait. Heavy baiting inevitably lowers your odds of success on a short session. If you already know where the fish are, either because you can see them or from past experience, it often pays to fish for one at a time, either with a single bait or a small, tight patch of bait. With this style of fishing it helps if you can introduce your bait without spooking the fish, and freelined baits or rigs lowered into the margins can be deadly. A baitdropper is a great way of positioning a tight patch of food stealthily with a rig in the middle, and if there are fish in the area you can expect action very quickly. You may need to move to find a new spot after each fish, but with this kind of fishing multiple catches are possible, even on short sessions.


PREDATORS HUNT BY DAY
In mid-summer the nights are short, and digestion rates are high, so some species normally associated with darkness will feed in the day. Eels and catfish will hunt fish prey actively on hot summer afternoons in certain circumstances. Big eels are predominantly nocturnal, but they are also opportunists, and are known to feed in daylight to take advantage of seasonal abundances of food. Minnows are a favourite food of large river eels, and when minnows congregate to spawn, eels are known to home in on this feeding opportunity, even on bright, sunny days. Catfish are energised by high water temperatures, and hunt fish in the warm surface layers of the lake, even in the heat of mid-afternoon. With prey fish shoaled up in the oxygen rich water close to the surface, cats can strike from beneath, often engulfing more than one small fish at a time in their cavernous mouths.


RETURNING FISH SAFELY
Fish fight particularly hard in summer and expend a lot of energy during the fight. Fish use red muscle fibres during normal day-to-day swimming, requiring a supply of oxygen-rich blood. For more energetic swimming, such as to avoid a predator, jump a waterfall or when hooked by an angler, fish can employ white muscle fibres, which provide power and speed, and function without the need for oxygen. When using white muscle, glycogen stored in their muscles is converted to lactic acid, and once all the glycogen has been used up the fish effectively runs out of power. The process of removing the lactic acid and restoring the glycogen reserves requires oxygen and time, and the fish must find somewhere safe to rest.
For this reason it is important that when fish are returned to the water after a fight they are held for a few moments in clean, oxygenated water, until they have the strength to swim off under their own steam. A fish released too soon can get its head stuck in weed or silt, where it will be deprived of oxygen and could die. Holding the fish upright for a few seconds before release reduces the risk of it getting stuck, and increases the chances that the fish will be able to free itself.
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DEADLY PREBAITING
Prebaiting is a useful tool in summer, providing it is used correctly. It is particularly useful in very big waters with low stock densities, because it increases the frequency with which fish visit particular areas. But to make the most of it you need to try to predict how the fish will respond. It works best over a period of several days or even weeks, and if bait can be introduced at the same time every day. Where natural feeding spells are typically at dawn and dusk, bait introduced at mid-morning may not be found until the evening. By choosing a suitable time, and introducing bait on a daily basis, fish will build up a pattern of behaviour that ensures they are in the area anticipating the arrival of their daily feed. It needn’t involve huge quantities of bait. A pint of micro-pellets or maggots sprinkled over gravel in the margins can have fish rooting around for hours, and done regularly will ensure fish visit frequently. You will be able to tell by the appearance of the gravel whether fish have been in and fed, and you may even be able to watch the fish feeding. A single bait introduced into the right area when the prebaiting has been carried out stands a good chance of picking up a fish.

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Bass – and how to catch them on coarse fishing tackle!

Bass – and how to catch them on coarse fishing tackle!





RATED highly for their fighting prowess and superior taste, bass are plentiful around the 
 British Isles.

And in the warmer month these bristling predatory beautiess can be found in all manner of coastal locations, from surfy beaches through to muddy harbours and estuaries.
The challenge for many dedicated sea anglers is to catch a double-figure specimen – a real catch of a lifetime, especially from the shore.
Large shoals of juvenile bass, often referred to as schoolies, haunt the coast in pursuit of prey, which is extremely diverse. They’ll smash into shoals of baitfish, but are just as eager to inhale crabs and molluscs off the sea bed. Estuaries and harbours are prime warm weather schoolie hotspots.
These muddy habitats yield a rich and diverse range of marine organisms, the majority of which feature on a bass’s menu.
Catching smaller bass is pretty straightforward. Locate a shoal and sport is almost a dead cert. It’s that classic shoal instinct of eating anything they come across – snooze and you lose, as your other shoal mates wolf it down!


Great sport can be had targeting lively schoolies on light coarse gear, though fairly abrasive mouths and rough scales call for lines of no lower than 6 lb breaking strain. Here’s what Angler’s Mail contributor Matt Sparkes uses…

Bass on quivertip gear with Matt Sparkes

The method I employ for my bassing session is to use my Avon rod with its quivertip section, coupled with a freespool reel loaded with durable 6 lb Maxima, fished straight through, paternoster style, with a chemically sharpened Aberdeen size 1 hook and a 1 oz carp bomb.
Bait wise, I opted for that classic sea bait, ragworm, this time choosing the fattest, juiciest king rag that my chum Deano, from Purbeck Angling, had to offer.
Bass have cavernous mouths, and a worm as thick as your finger is a mere snack!



1. Warm summer months herald the bass season. They are the number one species for many keen sea anglers. You’ll find them all around the coast, in every conceivable marine habitat, from tranquil sandy beaches to muddy harbours. A bass’s diet is broad, and anything is fair game. Sandeels and crabs are cropped with gusto, and it’s the latter that bring bass into harbours, estuaries and tidal rivers. Tides definitely affect your chances of catching them. I arrive just as the tide begins to rise steadily, as this brings in all the edible goodies that vast shoals of schoolies seek out. Sport can often be hectic, with fish after fish of all the same size wolfing down your bait. Expect the odd biggie, too. This smashing 7 lb 8 oz fish nailed my king rag bait within seconds of casting out, and did it ever fight! It’s fantastic sport on a quivertip rod.


2. Tidal stretches, which are incredibly rich in all manner of mud-loving marine organisms, can often produce impressive numbers of bass. Crabs in particular are abundant, and armour cladding and powerful pincers do nothing to deter a hungry bass.
Tiny shrimps also inhabit these muddy shores and are predated by many juvenile marine species, including little fingerling bass – all of which are happily taken by bigger bass. This is also prime mullet territory, and a winter flounder feeding ground.


3. Bass can be caught using many different methods – I’ve even seen plenty of schoolies caught on fly gear by experienced fluff chuckers. A great method in this harbour environment is to use quivertip tactics – not the delicate 1 oz tips you’d use for little silver fish, but the beefier tips associated with twin-tipped Avon-style rods. Abrasive pads on a bass’s mouth and rough scales call for a main line and hook length of no lighter than 6 lb breaking strain. Hooks can be either a size 6-8 carp hook or, even better, a chemically sharpened Aberdeen medium shank in a size 1 or 2. Lead size depends on the strength of the tide, but a 1 oz carp bomb is usually okay.


4. Ever present shore crabs can be insufferable, stripping your hooks bare within a minute of casting out. These habitats provide an easy, crunchy feast for visiting bass. It pays to take plenty of bait with you, not to feed off these annoying nippers (there’s no chance of that!), but to make regular casts in the hope that a passing bass will wolf down the wriggling treat before the greedy crabs get a look in. Another option is to float fish, keeping your bait just off the deck. Use the same sort of outfit as for floodwater chubbing, of robust line and chunky Loafer floats carrying around 3 to 6 SSG. It certainly saves on bait, but trotting tactics do generally seems to pick out the smaller bass.


5. Playing a lively bass on fairly light gear (by sea fishing standards) is exciting stuff, with a bullying scrap akin to a big chub. Sport is almost non-existent on a low tide, but as soon as it starts to back up, the bass appear, sometimes in big shoals, with the odd biggie hugging the deck, seeking out crabs and devouring them whole, pincers and all. Fishing through into the darkness can also yield some impressive bass catches, but have your wits about you, making sure the route back to your car isn’t cut off by a higher than normal spring tide!


6. Handle your catches with care.
Bass are a valuable commodity for recreational sea anglers, and it’s nice to slip them back in tip-top nick, which often means a few seconds of nursing them back to full health before letting them swim off. Watch out for those spines, too. Little, lively schoolies have numerous spiny fins and sharp gill plates, which will pepper your hands with painful stab wounds as you try to calm them down for unhooking. A wet cloth or gloves saves you from too much blood loss. A spacious, river-style net will land the biggest of bass, and an extra long, sturdy handle helps to reach fish from moorings, harbour walls and rocky venues.


7. Quivertipping is the best method for estuary bass fishing, especially where crabs are present. Little judders and plucks are registered easily, giving you a warning that your bait is being devoured systematically. A solid Avon tip doesn’t register a crab’s unwanted presence anywhere near so effectively. A bass bite is altogether different, though, a full-on slamming affair that can wrench your rod clear of the rest. Barbel anglers will be very familiar with these ‘three foot twitches!’ For that reason, I prefer to use a reel with a freespool mode, to prevent the rod disappearing into the sea!


8. Legal limits are sensibly enforced, to help conserve our fragile bass stocks, as commercial fishing has hammered European bass numbers. The current limit stands at 16 in. (41 cm) measured from the tip of the snout to the end of the tail fin, with any fish under that length being released immediately. The current UK shore-caught bass record stands at a mighty 19 lb, but many considerate bass anglers release very big specimens, as these bigger fish are of crucial breeding age. Bass are slow-growing and long-lived fish (a 10 lb specimen could be 20 or even 30 years old). They take six or seven years to reach sexual maturity, and are generally in excess of 40 cm long at that stage.

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How to choose the best swim on your river

How to choose the best swim on your river

WONDERING which swim to choose on a river for different species of fish and for different times of the year? Read on, as Angler's Mail helps you!

Any successful river angler knows that shoals of fish are never evenly distributed. There will often be long stretches that are completely barren of anything fishy, particularly in areas where the gravel bottom is carpeted with silt deposits.
The characteristics of river species is that pockets of fish shoal up in tight hotspots, which remain favourite holding areas for generations. Find any of these areas and your success rates could soar!


Clean gravel beds are a key hotspot on any river. Kept clean of silty build up by foraging fish, these areas offer a ready food supply for mini species, notably dace, through to big barbel. These areas can also produce good sport in winter for dace and grayling.

Shaded bridge runs are another hotspot well worth investigating. These darker areas are favoured by mini species which, in turn, draw in predatory pike and perch. Deeper water under any bridge is also a key holding area for river carp.

Channels running alongside dense reeds are another favourite chub haunt. Even in winter, when they become a mass of dead stubble, you’ll often find big fish using the stems as concealment from shoals of fish such as minnows. A freelined bait such as a juicy lobworm can often be the winning method.


Slacker, deeper water is a top daytime haunt for larger species, where they conserve energy and shoal up among the weedbeds or where the bank is undercut.


Tidal stretches are usually prolific areas to focus on as they offer lots of species a veritable feast of edible goodies. Dace, roach and carp in particular seem to tolerate the brackish water, and you’ll often find them right at the mouth of the river where it spills out into the sea. Tidal stretches have fluctuating water levels and can be tricky to master, but the rewards are definitely there.



Weirpools, including simple boulder constructions, experience increased current speeds, which keep the bottom clean and raise oxygen levels. They are worth a cast in the height of summer, where sluggish stretches festooned with weeds can lower oxygen levels. Weirpools are also key places for predators such as pike and perch.


Locate overhanging trees and bushes and there’s sure to be a shoal of chub underneath, using the dark shade as a point of ambush for passing prey. Barbel also favour these spots, especially on bright, sunny days. Present a bait as close as you possibly can and you could connect with a proper river whacker.


How to catch tench

How to catch tench


Although tench readily inhale large baits intended for carp, smaller baits that mimic their natural food menu can often yield more bites. Crunchy little casters are unbeatable tench tucker, as is hemp. They are also complete suckers for sweetcorn.
ANGLER’S MAIL is number one for tips and tricks, here’s another one. This time we show you how to catch tricky tench. 

Tench seem to do a vanishing act in the colder months, but as soon as the mercury levels start to climb they feed prolifically. They make their presence clear by tiny little pinprick bubbles produced as they grub around on the bottom.
Pound for pound Tench are up there with carp and barbel for their fighting prowess, and the males, with their large fins, can put up a real tussle.
Vast, clear pits festooned with weed offer the best chance of a really big tench, but decent-sized fish can readily be found in the tiniest of pools.
Carp fishermen regularly catch tench, but using a lighter set-up offers far better sport.


A softish Avon style rod is the perfect tool for dealing with lively tench, as match gear is often undergunned for a species that favours life among weedbeds, lilies and reedbeds.
Use balanced gear and you’ll appreciate scraps from lively tench far more than targeting them on carp tackle. Use an Avon rod balanced with a medium-sized reel loaded with 6 to 8 lb mono.

Locating tench can be easier than other species as those fizzing bubbles are a real giveaway.

They love margin shelves and foliage but locating shoals in larger venues can be harder.
A rule of thumb is that they follow favourable winds, so if the wind is blowing in your face you’re probably going to be among this nomadic species.
Tench are a popular summer target from all types of stillwaters. Huge 10 lb-plus specimens are often caught from large clear waters where dense weed beds promote rich, natural food larders. But even tiny ponds are capable of yielding substantial fish.
Tench patrol features such as bars, plateaux, islands and margins, where they feast on tiny snails and other tasty organisms. Tiny fizzing bubbles are a tell-tale sign that the tench are on the munch and nothing beats targeting them with stout float gear.

Although tench readily inhale large baits intended for carp, smaller baits that mimic their natural food menu can often yield more bites. Crunchy little casters are unbeatable tench tucker, as is hemp. They are also complete suckers for sweetcorn.

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METHOD FEEDER BASICS

METHOD FEEDER BASICS


FISHING the Method evolved from standard open and block-end swimfeeders and was initially developed with greedy commercial carp in mind.
It has now become a highly successful approach, not just for commercial bagging style venues but also for fooling those larger lumps.
It’s also a devastating tactic for tench and bream, and even now has a place on sluggish rivers when targeting chub and barbel.
Most groundbaits will mould around the frame of a Method feeder, and dedicated commercially available Method mixes are spot on.
You can also make your own concoctions. Cereal-based dog food Vitalin is an awesome ingredient – just add a little water, allow the mix time to absorb and you’ve got the perfect stiff mix which will cling to the vanes of Method feeders with ease.
Shorter than average hook links are the way to go for fishing the Method feeder.
The trick is to present your hook bait as close to the food ball as possible to guarantee it’s in close proximity to the feeding activity.
Even better is to actually push your hook bait into the ball before gently squeezing a final layer of mix.
Your typical Method feeder rig results in countless nods and twangs on the rod tip as grubbing fish begin to whittle away the ball of feed.
Don’t strike at these knocks, instead wait for a definite positive slamming bite, or a spool churning screamer!

1. Larger in-line Method feeders are usually nose heavy for aerodynamics and stability during the cast. Models such as these from Drennan, Korum and Fox are spot on for targeting larger specimens. The new maggot Method feeder from Fox incorporates a central chamber for wriggling grubs to allow Method mixes and maggots to be combined. All these larger Method feeders work better with coarser mixes such as Vitalin or crumb mixes with lots of extra tasty particles added.

2. These flat Method feeders take less of a payload and are popular on commercial pools. They are also the best option for sloping bottoms. Their aerodynamic shape and underslung lead placing ensures that the feeder casts well and always lands the right way up, so your buried hook bait is in the correct position every time and not trapped underneath. Finer groundbait mixes work well on flat feeders, as do softened pellets when moulded around it.

3. The rough and tumble of fishing the Method feeder calls for the right gear for the job. It’s probably best to shy away from high tech low diameter hook links and tiny hooks and opt for robust lines and strong hook patterns. An Avon style rod combined with a medium reel and 6 lb mono is perfect for flicking out smaller flat feeders on commercial pools, but a fully loaded larger in-line feeder can weigh several ounces so stepped up carp gear is essential, using lines of no less than 10 lb breaking strain.

4. A finished Method feeder rig should be simple in construction to make it as tangle-free as possible. The standard Method feeder rig is constructed in exactly the same way as an in-line semi fixed bolt rig. The only part you’re changing is substituting the lead for the Method feeder. Don’t forget to ensure that the hook link swivel fits snugly in the base of the Method feeder. It should pull free easily under slight pressure to allow the fish to rid itself of the feeder if the line breaks.

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